It’s been a long time since Teguise was the capital of Lanzarote, but every Sunday the old town turns into the busiest place on the island, thronged with visitors to the biggest market on the island.
La Real Villa de Teguise (The Royal Town of Teguise) is the full name of the town that was the island capital until 1847, but locals usually just call it La Villa. Built on the site of Acatife, one of the largest preconquest settlements on the island, and named after a Maho princess, it is one of Lanzarote’s most historic places.
You can see that history everywhere, from the Castillo de Santa Barbara that overlooks the town from the volcano of Guanapay to the narrow streets with names such as Callejón de la Sangre (Blood Alley) where pirates once raided and slaughtered islanders.
There are three old churches in Teguise, the main one being the church of Our Lady of Guadeloupe in the Plaza de los Leones. This church was once the tallest building on the island, and is still the site of the famous Christmas Midnight Mass in the town.
Those cast-iron lions which the square is named after are watching over the Palacio de Spinola, one of the most beautiful colonial mansions on Lanzarote, well worth a visit if it’s open.
Teguise is also famous for its Diabletes, a group of men who dress in patterned overalls and wander around holding fearsome masks over their faces. They’re not usually out and about until carnival season in early spring, but you may come across the bronze sculpture of a Diablete lunging forward to scare the lights out of someone.
Sunday is, of course, the busiest day in Teguise, but if you turn up in the week you’ll find a much quieter, sleepier town that has a silent centuries-old charm of its own.
MARKET TIPS
Plenty of buses and coaches offer excursions to the market, including public transport from Arrecife and all three resorts, and this is one of the best ways to get there and back.
Alternately, if you’re in a hire car just head up the hill and use one of the many parking spots which waving attendants will try to tempt you into. Free parking is also available, but usually requires a bit of local knowledge and a slightly longer walk.
The market is on two levels, with a farmers market offering locally grown products on the upper esplanade and the main market in the lower square. There’s also a street lined with stalls leading down to one side.
Take your time and shop around, but once you’ve finished, head into the old town itself, where you’ll find many more shops, cafes and restaurants. The fascinating Asian antiques in Emporium, located in the town’s old cinema building, are especially worth a look. Teguise has a thriving crafts and arts community, and you’re sure to find something that will catch your eye. You’re also sure to be captivated by the narrow streets with their whitewashed walls and famous doors and windows.
If you wait until after the market closes you’ll encounter a relaxed vibe that’s perfect for a lazy Sunday afternoon. But don’t miss that bus!
